This section contains advice on the selection of a useful tool kit. A number of tools are described, but it would be wrong to give the impression that such a kit is too expensive for the average home mechanic. The tools need not be purchased all at once. It is, in fact, suggested that the particular tools needed for each job be bought when the occasion arises; in this way, a complete kit will gradually be built up.
HAMMERS
The claw hammer is the backbone of any tool kit. Select one on the basis of its weight and balance. For small work, such as driving in tacks and brads, use an upholsterer's, or tack hammer. The striking face of the hammer should be kept free of dirt and rust. This will prevent the face from slipping off the head of the nail and damaging the wood surface. A loose hammer head can be tightened by driving small metal wedges into the top of the handle. Soaking the hammer head in water to tighten it is only a temporary cure and not satisfactory. Do not use a claw hammer for prying up heavy planks, or for pulling out heavy
spikes, as the claws will break.
The knack of driving a nail side or to the other. The teeth of a
straight is to have the face of the ripsaw are chisel shaped, the front hammer head at the same angle as the head of the nail. By doing this
you will avoid the
natural tendcncy to strike the nail head unevenly. Use sharp taps rather than heavy blows. This will
give you more control over the
hammer, and you will hit the nail-head squarely.
HANDSAWS
There are two kinds of handsaws: the crosscut, used for cutting across the grain of the wood, and the ripsaw for cutting with the grain. The teeth of a crosscut saw are triangular, the front of each tooth being filed to a 15-degree angle and the back to a 45-degree angle. The teeth are" set, " i.e. bent alternately to one side.
The knack of driving a nail side or to the other. The teeth of a
straight is to have the face of the ripsaw are chisel shaped, the front of each tooth filed to an 8-degree angle, and the rear to a 52-degree angle. The teeth of a ripsaw are "set" in the same fashion as those in a crosscut saw. The size of a saw is measured by
the number of points to the inch. The number of teeth to an inch is always one less than the number of points to the inch. A crosscut saw of average size is 8 points, while a ripsaw should be about 7 points.
Saws should be kept free of rust by wiping them with light oil after they have been used. Be very careful in sawing used lumber not to strike a nail or some metal object in the wood. This will dull the teeth to such a degree that the saw will be of little use until it has been sharpened. Do not try to work with a dull saw. This is too much of a handicap for even a skilled workman. Sharpening a saw properly requires skill and experience, and unless you are willing to devote considerable time to this job, it is advisable to have your saws sharpened by a professional.
Plumbing
The Plumbing System - Fresh water supply - Low Water Pressure - Hot Water System - Hot Water Heaters - Hot Water Tanks -
Dirty Hot Water - The Sewage System - Sewage Disposal - Cesspools - Septic Tanks - Clearing Sewer Pipes - Clearing Drains - Plumbing Traps - Toilet Traps - Noisy Plumbing - Leaks in Water Tanks - Frozen Pipes - Clogged Water Pipes - Hard Water - Faucets - Shower Mixing Valves - Leaky Flush Tanks - Flush Valves - Removing Toilet Bowl - Leaky Pipes - Draining the Plumbing - Sealing Traps - Draining the Heating System - Types of Pipe - Insulating Pipes - Water Corrosion - Cleaning Fixtures.
Electricity
Definition of Terms - Ohm's Law - Alternating and Direct Current - Sources of Electrical Power - The Electrical System - Overloading the Circuit - Rewiring - Reading a Meter - Precautions - Fuses - Types of Cord - Splicing Wires - Replacing Plugs and Switches - Home Lighting - Electric Motors - Signaling System - Transformers - Burglar Alarms - Repairing the System - How to Install a Bell System.
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