Handyman Guide > New Wood

A few years ago, green lumber was so seldom used in building that the home mechanic was never confronted with the problem of how to paint it.



Today, however, a great deal of green lumber is being used, and the sap found on the surface of this wood presents a serious problem. The best method, if possible, is to allow the wood to go unpainted until it has aged and most of the sap and moisture evaporated out of it. Green wood can be given a coat of shellac which will keep the sap from bleeding through the paint, but the shellac will seal off the pores of the wood and prevent the paint from making a strong bond with the wood.

Surface Preparation. Before paint is applied to unpainted wood, the surface should be free of dirt and dust. Paint penetrates the tiny pores in the wood, and if they are filled with dirt and grease, the work will not be successful. Turpentine can be used to remove the grease. All rough spots in the wood should be sanded smooth, and knots and sappy spots should be coated with orange shellac to prevent the sap from discoloring the paint.

The First Coat. The first coat of paint should be thinned with a good grade of turpentine. The amount of thinner used will depend somewhat on the condition of the wood. If the wood is well seasoned and extremely dry, the thinner can be linseed oil. The purpose of the first coat is to fill the pores and form a strong base for the following coats. By adding more turpentine, the drying of the paint is retarded, allowing it to permeate the pores. If the wood is dry and the pores are open, however, linseed oil can be used instead. Turpentine will dull the gloss of paint, while linseed oil will increase it.

Dip the brush into the paint so that about two inches of the bristles are covered. Remove the brush and wipe off the excess paint by drawing the brush across the edge of the container. By repeating this process several times, the end of the brush will be well filled with paint, with no surplus to run down the handle. A paint brush can carry only so much paint. If you dip the entire length of the bristles into the paint and try to move the brush to the surface, you are almost sure to lose a quantity of paint in the process.

Brush the first coat of paint into the wood vigorously, so that not only is the entire surface covered with an even coat but the paint is forced down into the wood pores by the brushing action. Do not brush the p'aint too much after it has set, as this constant rebrushing will give a rough surface.

Start painting at the highest point and, if possible, work across the surface rather than up and down. This will prevent any vertical joints in the painted surface if you are unable to finish the job in one day.

Continue to Painting Over Paint



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The Workshop
Equipping the Workshop - Heating - Fire Precautions - The Workbench - Saw Bucks - Tool Rack.

Home Construction
Elements of the House - Building Materials - Lumber - Molding - Kinds of Wood and their Characteristics - Plywood Wallboard - Roofing Materials - Concrete - Mixing Concrete - Cement Mortar - Concrete Forms - Concrete Blocks - Cinder Blocks - Bricklaying - Fieldstone - Anchoring in Masonry - Soldering.

Furniture
Upholstered Furniture - Furniture Upkeep - Removing Stains - Removing Dents - Leather Upholstery - Cane Seats - Furniture Repairs - How to Repair Breaks - Levelling furniture - Remodeling Furniture - Polishes and Polishing - French Polishing - Painting Furniture - Sticking Drawers - Metal Furniture.

Painting
Paint Brushes - Storing Brushes - Varnish - Water Paint and Plastic Paint - Types of Paint - Paint Thinners - Mixing Paints - Preparing the Surface - Painting Flaws - Removing Paint - Exterior Painting - Painting New Wood - Repainting - Metal - Interior Painting - Calcimine - Painting Woodwork - Old Wood Trim - Staining - Fillers - Varnishing - Bleaching - Enameling - Painting Radiators - Painting Concrete - Shingles - Stoves and Stove Pipes - Whitewash.

Heating
Home Heating Systems - Chimneys - Coal Furnaces - Fuels - Burning Wood - Furnace Dampers - Starting a Coal Fire - Removal of Ashes - Coal Stokers - Oil Burners - Kerosene Heaters - Thermostats - Boiler Dampers - Fuel Economy - Warm Air System - Steam System - Vacuum System - Hot Water System - Radiators - Boilers - Maintaining the System - Insulating the System - Home Insulation - Storm Windows - Weather Stripping - Insulating Your Home - Blanket and Rigid Insulation - Unfinished Attic and Exterior Walls - Winterizing a Cabin - Preparing the foundation - Winterproofing a Cottage - Fireplaces - Reducing Condensation - Humidity.

Plumbing
The Plumbing System - Fresh water supply - Low Water Pressure - Hot Water System - Hot Water Heaters - Hot Water Tanks - Dirty Hot Water - The Sewage System - Sewage Disposal - Cesspools - Septic Tanks - Clearing Sewer Pipes - Clearing Drains - Plumbing Traps - Toilet Traps - Noisy Plumbing - Leaks in Water Tanks - Frozen Pipes - Clogged Water Pipes - Hard Water - Faucets - Shower Mixing Valves - Leaky Flush Tanks - Flush Valves - Removing Toilet Bowl - Leaky Pipes - Draining the Plumbing - Sealing Traps - Draining the Heating System - Types of Pipe - Insulating Pipes - Water Corrosion - Cleaning Fixtures.

Electricity
Definition of Terms - Ohm's Law - Alternating and Direct Current - Sources of Electrical Power - The Electrical System - Overloading the Circuit - Rewiring - Reading a Meter - Precautions - Fuses - Types of Cord - Splicing Wires - Replacing Plugs and Switches - Home Lighting - Electric Motors - Signaling System - Transformers - Burglar Alarms - Repairing the System - How to Install a Bell System.

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