Handyman Guide > Building Sawbucks

Saw Bucks. When sawing lumber, some form of stool or stand is necessary on which to rest the board to be cut. A short piece of board to be crosscut or ripped, can be held with the imee on any solid stand. Longer boards, however, must be supported at both ends, and a pair of stands are needed. The best support for longer boards - a door, for example is provided by a pair of strong trestles. These trestles are often called saw bucks or saw horses. Plan to build a pair of them.

The saw buck, as made by a carpenter, is arranged so that the legs slope backward and out. This is to provide a firm stand while keeping the legs out of the way of the saw. Tops of the legs are notched to receive the top beam, which is cut from a piece of 2 x 4, wide face up. The leg tops, owing to the two-way slope, have to be cut with a slant or bevel, that is, a compound of the two slopes, and this is apt to be difficult for the beginner. The same problem arises when making a wheelbarrow, where the legs are joined in a similar two-way slope.

There is a simpler method which will give ample strength and stability. Slope the legs outward only, as shown in the drawing. On examining this saw buck, the reader will see that the leg is straight instead of sloping backward. The two legs on each side will thus be parallel with each other, and with the opposite pair. Measure 4 inches from the end of the top beam, square a line down the side of the beam, and fit the top of the leg square to this line.

In other words, the distance from the end of the beam to the outside edge of the leg will be 4 inches. Screw the legs to the beam on both sides. The end braces should be screwed on after the legs have been fixed to the beam.

The bottoms of the legs will have to be squared off while the saw buck stands level on the floor. Rest a level on top of the beam and pack up the legs with thin slices of wood until the bubble in the level is centered. Use a straight piece of wood, about 3/4 inch by 1/4 inch, as a straightedge. Place it along side the legs at one end, narrow edge on the floor, close to the legs. The worker will be viewing the saw buck as seen in the end elevation.

Run a pencil along the top edge of the straightedge, so that it marks a horizontal line across the legs of the saw buck. This indicates the true line at which the ends of the legs should be cut to give a level stance.

Make the legs of the buck out of 2 x 3 inch stock, and the top out of 2 x 4 inch. The end braces ought not to be less than 11,4 inches thick, and may be up to 8 inches wide. They are secured with No. 12 screws, the length being suited to the thickness of the braces. A V-shaped notch may be cut in one end of the top beam for use when ripping boards; it helps to prevent the saw from damaging the end of the saw buck.

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Electricity
Definition of Terms - Ohm's Law - Alternating and Direct Current - Sources of Electrical Power - The Electrical System - Overloading the Circuit - Rewiring - Reading a Meter - Precautions - Fuses - Types of Cord - Splicing Wires - Replacing Plugs and Switches - Home Lighting - Electric Motors - Signaling System - Transformers - Burglar Alarms - Repairing the System - How to Install a Bell System.

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