Handyman Guide > Soldering

The procedure and materials necessary for efficient soldering vary according to the type of work, but there are general rules which should be observed at all times. The surfaces to be united must be chemically clean, free from grease and dirt, and sufficient heat must be applied not only to melt and flow the solder but to warm the parts of the joint. The soldering iron must be clean and free from oxide.

A flux is used to seal off the surfaces from the air and prevent oxidation, and to assist the flow of melted solder. On electrical work, a non-acid flux should be used to avoid corrosion and damage to the adjacent parts. For ordinary work in which functional safety is not involved, acid flux may be used, provided that the excess is removed when the work is finished.

Solder. Solder, an alloy of tin and lead, can be used with a resin flux applied directly to tin-plated objects, but for other materials the joining surfaces must first be coated with a thin film of solder.

Solder can be obtained in bar or tubular form. Tubular solder with an internal core of resin is very useful, but it will be found that soldering is improved by a little acid flux. Paste fluxes are excellent, but the liquid acid is preferable because it cleans the surfaces, besides preventing oxidation.

Tinning the Iron. No successful soldering job can be done until the soldering iron has been tinned. The first step in this job is to clean the copper of the iron with a file or an abrasive cloth. Heat the iron until it is hot enough to melt the solder (solder melts at 372 degrees F), but do not let the iron become too hot or it will not hold the tin. Rub the copper of the iron on a brick of sal ammoniac until the copper becomes bright. Cover the surface of the copper with solder and wipe off the excess with a piece of cloth or some steel wool. The iron is now ready for use.


Heating the Iron. A soldering iron can be heated in several ways. Electrical irons are most common in the home workshop, as they take up a minimum amount of space and require no additional equipment. Other kinds of irons can be heated by a blowtorch or by a gas furnace. Regardless of what method is used to heat the iron, do not allow the iron to become red hot or it will require retinning.

"Sweating" a Patch. The technique employed here is to apply a thin film of solder to the patch and to the area surrounding the hole where the patch is to be applied. After both pieces of metal have been treated, place the patch so that the two sides covered with solder are face to face. Hold the patch securely in place and apply heat to it. Keep heat on the patch until the solder under the patch is melted. Remove the source of heat but keep pressure on the patch until the solder hardens.

This method of "sweating" a patch can be used on kitchen utensils made of brass and copper and will prove satisfactory unless the utensil is placed over a flame without water inside.

Aluminum cannot be soldered very effectively, and stainless steel requires a special solder and flux.

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Electricity
Definition of Terms - Ohm's Law - Alternating and Direct Current - Sources of Electrical Power - The Electrical System - Overloading the Circuit - Rewiring - Reading a Meter - Precautions - Fuses - Types of Cord - Splicing Wires - Replacing Plugs and Switches - Home Lighting - Electric Motors - Signaling System - Transformers - Burglar Alarms - Repairing the System - How to Install a Bell System.

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